Yeah, dark skins by and large don't see the nice side of Australia. There's a long and rich tradition of quite savage racism. Remember, this is a country that only accepted in 1968 that the aborigines were human beings, and still (officially) doesn't think it has anything to apologise for.

Wait until you get to Darwin... not only are there more aborigines, they're generally treated worse. I think Darwin still has a curfew on blacks, for instance.

But the landscape is bloody nice.